India - Experience Goa and Delhi

When most backpackers think of Asia, their minds usually drift to Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia or Indonesia. These places are beautiful, no doubt - but there’s a hidden gem that’s often overlooked: India.

Just an eight-hour flight away, India offers a cultural feast for the senses. And tucked away on its western coastline is the country’s smallest state, Goa - a tropical paradise with a Portuguese twist. I recently spent nearly two weeks exploring Goa and Delhi, and honestly, I’m still thinking about it. Here’s what we did, what I’d recommend, and what I’d do differently next time.

A Rocky Start (Thanks, Heathrow)

Our plan was simple: a direct flight to Mumbai and then a quick hop to Goa. But British Airways had other plans. After our flight was oversold and delayed by a full day, we finally arrived in Goa in the early hours of New Year’s Eve. Not the dream start, but we made it.

We headed straight to Candolim in North Goa, where we checked into The Astor, a five-star hotel with a pool - something that’s not a given in Goa. At £275 each for four nights, including breakfast, it was great value for the location, comfort, and convenience.

Exploring North Goa

North Goa is where the energy is. Busy beaches, buzzing markets, and lots of places to eat, drink, and explore.

Here’s what we got up to:

  • Candolim Beach – A lively stretch lined with beach shacks. We loved Calamari, Kingfisher, and a Japanese-inspired spot called Yazu.

  • Anjuna – Don’t miss the Anjuna Market for great shopping, and Mayan Beach Club for drinks with a view.

  • Calangute – Ideal if you’re after watersports and a bit of excitement.

  • Old Goa – A fascinating glimpse into the state’s colonial history with its churches and architecture.

Our hotel provided a traditional breakfast each morning and transportation whenever we needed it, which made things run smoothly. That said, if I were to go again, I’d probably only spend two nights here. As a solo female traveller, I didn’t find Candolim Beach especially relaxing - possibly due to it being peak holiday season.

South Goa: Peace, Quiet, and Paradise

Two hours south felt like stepping into a completely different world. We arrived at Patnem Beach and checked into Abidal Resort, a small cluster of beachfront huts. There were only five or six huts on this peaceful stretch of sand, and waking up to the sound of the waves was honestly my idea of perfection. At £120 each for three nights, it was amazing value.

We were close to:

  • Patnem Beach – Quiet, calm, and ideal for unwinding.

  • Palolem Beach – A little busier, with lots of casual beach shacks to relax in.

  • Agonda Beach – A short tuk tuk ride away and known for its yoga retreats and laid-back vibe.

If you’re looking for tranquillity, South Goa is where you’ll find it.

A Unique Stay at Cola Beach

Next, we made our way north again to Cola Beach, where we stayed at Nest by Craftels. The concept is stunning - you’re essentially sleeping in a giant bird’s nest perched above the sea. Our King Suite even had a private hot tub, and the views were unreal.

We paid £300 each for three nights, including breakfast, which felt a bit overpriced for Goa, especially after discovering equally lovely places for a quarter of the cost. While the food was fantastic and the location truly special (complete with a little cove for kayaking), the experience was let down by poor service and maintenance issues. We had flooding in the room and some privacy concerns. It wouldn’t be my choice again, but it definitely didn’t ruin the trip.

The Final Chapter: Delhi

After the calm of Goa, we hopped on a 1.5-hour flight to Delhi for the last leg of our trip. We stayed near Connaught Place - a central area that’s perfect for sightseeing. Our hotel was just over £100 for two of us per night, half board, which included both breakfast and dinner. For the quality and location, it was excellent value. We may have underestimated how cold it would be in Delhi in January and definitely did not pack for the weather! Lucky I had a hoodie with me otherwise I would have been screwed…

With only two full days in the city and some rainy weather, we packed in as much as we could:

Day 1: We hired a tuk tuk driver outside the hotel for about £25 for four to five hours. He took us to all the major sites, including:

  • Gurudwara Bangla Sahib – A Sikh temple that feeds over 30,000 people a day

  • Lotus Temple

  • India Gate

  • Humayun’s Tomb

  • A few local fabric emporiums

Some might say we overpaid for the tuk tuk, but honestly, our driver was amazing and made the day so easy.

Day 2: We did a day trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. It was a three-hour drive each way, and we paid £30 per person for the transport. Entry to the Taj Mahal was about £18. Watching the marble change colour with the sunlight was truly breathtaking. Agra itself is lively and full of character—not to mention monkeys. We had lunch there before heading back to Delhi in the evening.

The Cost

In total, I spent around £1,500 per person on flights and accommodation. But now that I’ve been, I can confidently say you could do it for much less. Once you’re in India, everything from food to transport is very affordable. It’s a place where your money goes a long way.

Final Thoughts

India was vibrant, chaotic, peaceful, spiritual, and completely captivating. From the beaches of Goa to the history-soaked streets of Delhi and Agra, every part of the trip had its own magic. It’s a country of contrasts, where you’ll never have the same day twice.

Would I go again? Without hesitation. In fact, I’m already planning how to fit it into my schedule.

So if you're deciding where to travel next, don’t overlook India. It might just be the trip that surprises you the most.

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